SIGHTINGS OF THE BURYATIA
KABANSKY REGION
Khamar - Daban

Khamar - Daban (from the Buryat word “a ridge – nose”, “nut pass”) is a name of
highlands near Baikal which is divided into small and big Khamar-Daban. It
represents a mountain chain ranging from 40 up to 90 kms wide on the place of
small and big Khamar-Daban, divided by the valley of the Temnik-river,and the
length of this highland is 500 kms. The tops of the range (goltsy or hills) are
deprived of vegetation, they have round shapes without distinct crest and reach
the height of 2000-2300 m above sea level. The maximum height of the range is
2371 m (mountain Khan – Ula). The chain stretches along the south-eastern shore
of Baikal from the Selenginsky lowlands to the range of Munku-Sardyk. Mountains
are steep from the Baikal side and serve as a natural barrier for air streams,
transferred across Baikal. Precipitations here are more abundant than in adjacent areas, the damp climate
promotes plentiful growth of various vegetation, that is why this ridge is
sometimes called “ the Siberian jungles ”.
The ridge is composed of hard minerals and so stony fields, rocky remains 20 and
more metres high, displays of water erosion and precipices are widely spread
there. Sometimes mud streams and landslips happen here, earthquakes can reach
9-11 balls. Subsoil waters are found close to the surface, they frequently come
upwards and form boggy plots, in some parts significant in length in the valleys
of the rivers. There are a lot of small and rather big rivers in Khamar-Daban,
the largest of them are the Snezhnaya, the Khara-Murin, the Temnik, the Utulik
and the Zun-Murin with width that in some parts reach 45 meters and depth is up
to 1,5 meters. In upper rivers the speed of stream reaches 2 ì per second. The
bottom of the rivers is composed of sand, gravel, boulders, in mezhen (interseasonal
period) nearly all rivers are surmountable for ford. Freezing of the rivers
occurs in October - November (within winter some of them freeze through to the
bottom), much ice is formed, melting takes place in April - May, with a small
spring flood. The highest water level in the rivers is observed in July when in
upper rivers thawing of snow coincides with plentiful rains. At this time water
level and speed of stream extremely grow and flooding occurs. The rivers have
weirs, rollings and waterfalls, rocky canyons and clips with difficult rounds
are usual. Few lakes found in the valleys of the rivers, on flat spaces between
rivers and on the plateau, are small in size and depth and have a glacial
origin.
Climate
The northern part of the ridge facing to the Baikal and subjected to its
influence, the climate is more moderate and damp that allows to speak about
presence here of cold subtropics: the amount of precipitations here is about
1300 mm per year, rains frequently have stormy character, in highlands the
volume of precipitations can reach 2000 mm. The height of snowy cover on the
slopes can exceed twice the usual norm of 80-120ñm. The average temperature in
January is -16-18 °Ñ, in July +14 °Ñ. The southern part is significantly
influenced by droughty climate of semideserts of Mongolia, precipitations are
300-350 mm per year, the height of snowy cover is in 2-3 times less than in the
northern part. The average temperature of January is -23-27 °Ñ, in July is +15,
+ 18 °Ñ. Typical for the ridge minimum night temperature in winter is about -35
°Ñ (absolute minimum is -55 °Ñ). Sometimes stormy weather with snowfalls happen
here, temperature falls abruptly in summer months, it can snow in August, and a
steady snow cover is formed by the end of September. The snow cover melts in the
end of April - middle of May, avalanches go down at this time. Autumn, as a rule
is dry, windless, with sharp downturn of air temperature in October (in the
afternoon up to -6-8 °Ñ, at night up to -4-10 °Ñ). Powerfull snowfalls are
possible in this period.
Flora and fauna
Vegetation of the mountain range is mountainous-taiga, difficult for passing by,
just like on all ranges of Pribaykalye. It has three high-altitude zones: the
zone of terraces and pre-hills with bogs, meadows, birch forests and fields
widely spread here; a mountainous - taiga zone of dark-coniferous taiga with
prevalence of silver fir on humid plots and cedar on steep and dry slopes; the
upper – transitional subzone with silver fir and cedar parks and high-grass
subalpine meadows (the so called podgoltsovy (subhilly)1500-1700 m high, with
thick overgrowth of formidable cedar stlanic, kashkary and willow); above 1700 m
– the goltsovy (hilly)zone with Alpine low-grass meadows and heathlands,
thickets of cedar stlanic. Forests are about 22 m high and abounds in windfallen
and storm-beaten trees, stone fields (kurumy), plots of burnt and dry woods.
The fauna of the range is represented by 37 species of mammals and 260 species
of birds. To protect flora and fauna of the range, to observe air basin the
Baikal biosphere reserve was founded here.
Tourism
The development of tourism on Baikal lake is connected with Khamar-Daban. Just
here in the area of Chersky peak (Irkutsk oblast) the first tourist routes were
organized. The first groups made an ascention to the peak before and during the
Great Patriotic War in 1941-1945. These campaigns were carried out by sports
societies and army commanders with the purpose of training soldiers. Further the
geography of routes extends, the quantity of participants of campaigns is
increased. Especially actively tourism in Khamar-Daban developed in 60-70-s
years. Many tourists visited Khamar-Daban from Irkutsk oblast and from Buryatia.
During 25 years the city club of tourists "Khamar-Daban" worked in Ulan-Ude.
Tourism had at this time mass character. Many routes were well-equiped,
described, tourist maps were issued.
Now there are several rather enough popular tourist routes in Khamar-Daban,
which are regularly visited by tourists. Among them are both simple (ordinary)
routes and routes of the sixth (supreme) category of complexity. The most
popular are foot routes to Chersky peak, to Sable lakes, water routes on the
Snezhnaya, the Utulik, the Temnik, the Zun-Murin-rivers and also winter ski
routes. Different competitions and touriads are organized in Khamar-Daban. The
range is visited not only by tourists from many regions of Russia and from
abroad.
The range is interesting not only for sports and tourism, there are many
beautiful landscapes, in autumn there are often many mushrooms and berries. Such
sights, as Sable lake, waterfalls Grokhotun, Skazka, Izumrudny are located here.
Along the Snezhnaya-river the unique grove of relic poplars in Eastern Siberia
grows. From the tops of the range one can enjoy the panorama of Baikal.
At the same time, the relief and vegetation of Khamar-Daban represent the
certain complexity for movement of tourists. Tops of the range, frequently rich
in overgrowth of cedar stlannic are difficult to pass and the unsufficient
review complicates orientation. The certain danger is represented by plentiful
precipitations and sudden frosts which are possible even in July. Also very
dangerous is an entsephalitny kletsh (an insect dangerous for its sting). The
absence of settlements is one more circumstance that complicates rendering of
the emergency help in case of its necessity. Campaigns to the Khamar-Daban range
require careful training. So because of reasons of safety all tourists are
recommended to be registered in Search and Rescue service of the Ministry of
Emergency Measures of the Russian Federation.
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