SIGHTINGS OF THE BURYATIA
TUNKINSKAYA VALLEY
Bukha-Noyon
Approaching the village of Tory one can see clearly a white stain on the slope
of the ridge. It is one of cult places in Tunkinsky valley – Bukha-Noyon (the
Bull – the master, the chief, the leader).
The bull is one of the mythological primogenitors – totems of Buryat people, a
symbol of nature power, an object of shaman cult.
One of the Buryat legends spoke about two mighty bulls - white and motley that
met near the Baikal and began the fight for the right to be the ruler of this
land. The fight lasted many days. But nobody could win. Then the motley bull
left for the Barguzinsky valley where he turned into the stone of Bukhe-Shulun,
and the white one left for the Tunkinsky valley where he turned into a white
rock Bukhe-Noyon, but they both became famous and people worship both of them.
On a cult place at height of 1050 meters there is a picturesque rocky formation
from white marble with the Buddhist kumirnrnya at its top.The outlines of the
rock is really similar to the laying bull. The marble gradually collapses,
therefore there is a big white tongue that goes down the hill.
Within centuries people worshipped this place and it has not lost its value
nowadays. The fact that in definite period there was a certain competition
between interests of priests – representatives of different religions proves
that this place played an important role in spiritual life of Buryat people.
- First it had been the place of shaman cult rituals,
- then on one "horn" a Buddhist kumirnya was built,
- and on the other the orthodox chapel later appeared.
In due course everything was arranged, people themselves decided to whom and how
to pray. Now here, as well as in many other cult places of Buryatiya, cult
actions of Buddhists and Shamanists are made in the consent. At the same time
there is a certain interdiction which has come from ancient times. The place has
been tabooed. The ascention and ceremonies are made in certain days by local
shamen. And the ascention is allowed only to men and women of advanced age. It
is forbidden to come nearer to this place to young girls, probably, it is
connected to a legend which spoke that the girls of neighboring villages at that
time displeased the bull heated at the hot top of a volcano. The tradition
orders people before rising to Bukh-Noyon, to address to the Buddhist priest who
should hold a special ceremony “ the Permission for visiting sacred places ”.
To come to this place is possible through the village of Dalahay, the distance
to which from the village of Tory is 3 kms. Thus, it will be necessary to pass
the narrow bridge over the river- Irkut. In Dalahay the road forks and one can
go along any of them, anyhow it is better to take a local guide as the roads
wind and behind the village they pass fields and boggy places. It is possible to
come to the basis of the mountain by motor transport but further it is necessary
to go on foot about 2 kms. There is a path from the right road.
On the mountain, as well as in other cult places there is a rule that orders to
behave quietly, not to make a noise, not to litter, and it is necessary to leave
Bukha-Noyon a gift. From the opposite slope there is a very beautiful view to
the sacred mountain on the background of Tunkinsky valley where it is possible
to make good pictures.
PAGES OF THE PICTURE ALBUM
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Tour to Buryatia
St. Petersburg
