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The Sights of the Barguzinskaya valley.

SIGHTINGS OF THE BURYATIA

BARGUZINSKY VALLEY

The Barguzinsky range


The Barguzinsky range occupies more than thirds of eastern coast of Baikal lake, having stretched for about 300 kms along it from the north to the south, from the valley of the river Verkhnya Angara, its width in the north is about 80 kms, and in the south, in Chivyrkuysky hills is about 30 kms. The average height of its tops is within the limits of 2400 m, the greatest height of 2841 m (peak Baikal) - it reaches in the middle part of the main water-separate range. Among ranges surrounding Baikal the Barguzinsky range is the most powerful and the highest. In a high-mountainous part of the range there is a number of pointed peaks, towers, needles, pyramids and the trapezes composed from hard minerals. One can find traces of comparatively recent glacier in the forms of small modern glaciers, morenny deposites, and valleys of the rivers have trough character with crossbars and ledges on their length, with numerous falls and their cascades. The highest of them, according to some data, reaching 300-meter length, is on the tributary of the Tompudy-river, Tykma. In the upper parts of the range there is a set of glacial lakes in circuses - sources of the rivers and on the plateaushaped parts of the range. The eastern slopes of the range (from the side of the Barguzin-river), especially in the central part, represent steep precipices which face the valley as rocky walls, the western slopes represent spurs cut by abounding in water tributaries of Baikal, gently sloping aside the coasts of the lake.
 

The Chivyrkuyskie goltsy (hills), closing the Barguzinsky range from the south, conditionally begin by the valley of the river Bolshaya Cheremshanaya and do not exceed heights of 2000 m. From the north the relief is more smoothed, however, here are also expressive rocky tops.
 

As well as on all high ranges of Pribaykalye, on the Barguzinsky range the taiga reaches the height of 1200m, some trees reach height of 1400 m. Above the taiga zone there is a vegetation of tundra character - birches, willows, cedar stlannik. In the upper ranges near lakes there are the Alpine meadows with plentiful thickets of flowers, where Siberian zharki prevail. The fauna here is typical for Siberia, but ornitofauna is richer (up to 400 species of birds). There are a lot of bears. In July they usually move from the coast of the lake to the mountains where the meeting of travellers with them is rather possible.
 

The regime of the rivers is unstable: the highest level is marked during summer showers, conterminous with the period of intensive thawing of snow in goltsovaya (hilly) zone. The largest rivers of the range located on its western slope are the tributaries of Baikal as the rivers Froliha, Òîmpuda, Shegnanda, Kabanya, Bolshaya, Sosnovka, Cheremshanaya. Only the Svetlaya-river, collecting water from the gutter in its northern cape is an exception. The rivers which are flowing down from the eastern slopes of the Barguzinsky range without exception run into the river Barguzin, and having much smaller areas of a reservoir, they are less abounding in water and are frequently lost on the descent in the Barguzinskaya valley in their own deposits.
 

The climate of the range is sharply continental (up to - 40 °Ñ in winter, up to +35. +40 °Ñ in summer), in high mountains there are a few hot cloudless days, variable overcast and cool cloudy weather are usual, drizzles can last several days. The largest amount of precipitations drop in July - August, weather is unstable, and can change repeatedly within a day. It begins to snow in September and finishes in June (in mountains it occurs all-the-year-round), the snow cover in taiga is kept with height of 1,3-1,4 m, in mountains and on the coast it is in average 0,7-0,9 m, in subgoltsvy and goltsovy zones it is 1,6-2,0 m high. Avalanche danger is great, blockages of snow in mountains can be kept, as well as numerous snezhniki (snowdrifts) the whole summer. Baikal softens the climate at the basis of the range: summer in the coast is cooler, and winter is much softer, than in mountains, evaporations from water areas are transferred by north-western winds to the range and fall as rains, warming influence of huge mass of water is shown in rather warm late autumn and first half of winter, and as a result of late thawing of ice in water area of Baikal spring comes late. Average winter temperature of air in the coast is -20,8 °Ñ, and average summer air temperature is +14,3 °Ñ. In the mountains it is in average lower on 10-15 °Ñ, thus rains in the coast drop in 1,5-2 times more.
 

For tourism the Barguzinsky range has remained unexplored in many respects because of its inaccessibility and non-inhabitance. The least accessible and very interesting for tourists are western, basically taiga slopes of the range. Movement in these places is possible only in the valleys of the rivers where animal and hunting tracks pass, sometimes "improved" by tourists, but frequently they are less suitable and often lost. The 1-st tourist track has been laid and well-equiped across the range, it begins in the settlement of Barguzin and comes to an end in the bay of Chivyrkuy. On the coast all tracks come to the Krugobaikalskaya (Around Baikal) track which is in the stage of creation. The majority of tourist routes have linear character and, beginning from the Barguzin valley, through mountains conduct to lake Baikal. Some routes have radial or ring character, beginning and finishing on the coast of the Chivyrkuysky gulf, they lead to the upper Barguzinsky range.
 

There is no regular water communication along the eastern coast of Baikal lake now, except the voyages from Nizhneahgarsk and port of Kurly to the area of lake Froliha, to the bay Khakusy - the places of rest and treatment. The entrance to the range along the Barguzinsky highway beginning in Ulan-Ude is the most convenient. The way from Nizhneangarsk across the Dagarskaya bay is known (the variant of the entrance across BAM to the settlements on the river Upper Angara and a ferry through it to the beginnings of routes is possible). From the north distances and difficulties are considerably increased achieving the central part of the range.

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